Livon Tiare Mate Merlot 1999; 13% alc., $49.99
A fine example of Merlot in the Italian style. This example is from Collio in Friuli, northern Italy. Very much like the French example in style, but more depth of fruit. Best food wine in the lineup.
Next, we turned to Washington State, which was heralded by Baron Philippe de Rothschild years ago as having world class potential for Merlot. Over the past decade or so, names like Canoe Ridge, Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, Three Rivers, and L'Ecole No. 41 have regularly scored near the top of American Merlots. We wanted to compare one of these with a top bottling from a large Washington State producer.
Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley 2001; 13.5% alc., $8.99
In short, a disappointment. It had the typical soft, monodimensional quality we have come to associate with economy priced American Merlots. Some of our tasters thought it more akin to soda pop than fine wine.
L'Ecole No. 41 Merlot Columbia Valley; 14.1% alc., $25
Terrific Merlot. Nose just a little short, but the flavor is complex, layered; voluptuous and opulent. Nothing like the French or Italian examples. Warm and inviting. An excellent example of New World Merlot. Highly Recommended.
Our California lineup contained four wines in two categories: affordable and unaffordable! Typical international Merlots of good quality are frequently available in the $20-25 range, so we selected two California wines at that price point:
Markham Merlot Napa Valley 2002; 13.8% alc., $17.99
Markham wines are known for value without too much compromise and this one proves true to the rule. A light but pretty nose leads to delicious plum flavors, excellent acid and soft tannins which give the wine enough structure to put down for a couple of years.
Matanzas Creek Merlot Sonoma Valley 2002; 14.2% alc., $19.99
An excellent Merlot, well worth it's price. Matanzas Creek Winery pioneered a new California AVA (appellation) in Bennett Valley, northwest of Sonoma. They have just released a vineyard designated bottling of Merlot from the Jackson Park vineyard, reputed to be one of California's premiere Merlot vineyards. We found the Matanzas Creek Merlot Sonoma County 2002 to be a polished example of high quality California Merlot. Highly Recommended.
The "unaffordables" in our tasting menu raise the bar for Merlot internationally. Both are stunning, faultlessly crafted wines that deliver the essence of what Merlot can be.
Twomey Merlot Napa Valley 2002; $60
Effulgent nose of spicy plum and black raspberries. Rich flavors of black currant and warm spices accompany the deep fruit. Voluptuous texture, smooth drinking. Tannins, just right to provide an attractive textural element. Perfectly balanced. Very highly recommended.
