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King of Wines, Wine of Kings: A Fresh Look at California Nebbiolo

© Alan Boehmer

The Cosentino Winery in Napa Valley has done splendid things with Italian varietals for many years. We've never tasted an Italian varietal wine from Cosentino that we didn't like. Our tasting panel was delightfully surprised by Cosentino's The Neb Sonoma Valley 2001 ($28/500ml). The Neb is a marriage of the best features of both Italian and California styles. Deep nose of black fruit, leather, marzipan, chocolate and earth. Deep color and excellent balance. Rich, sweet fruit flavors and soft on the palate. Of all the wines tasted our panel scored this wine second only to the 93 pt Pira Barolo ($75).

So what is to be the future of California Nebbiolo wines? Progress has certainly been made over the past decade. Will Americans discover the value of wines crafted to be paired with food? Is there a place for wines that feature bright acid and reserved fruit in the American market? Will winemakers discover new styles better suited to our soils and climate? One thing we hope for: Please, no Super Piedmont wines that dilute the uniqueness of Nebbiolo with Cabernet Sauvignon.