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California Pinot Grigio— Reviews and Recommendations

© Alan Boehmer

Fourth Article in a Series on Italian Varietals in California

Pinot Grigio is a white Italian varietal that is exciting an increasing number of California winemakers. There are currently at least eighteen California wineries offering a PG, and for many of them the current release is their first venture with the varietal.

With every new vintage the skills of viticulturists and enologists seem to improve worldwide, and especially so in California. Consequently, we have only good news to report. The examples tasted by our panel ranged from very good to outstanding. We were amazed that wineries with no previous experience with Pinot Grigio and with little domestic information upon which to draw would produce such stellar wines in their first attempt.

The distinctive California characteristics are manifest in all these wines: balance, rich flavors and aromas - expressive wines which flirt with excess, but never cross the line. California Pinot Grigios are a little softer than many Sauvignon Blancs, never as overtly oakey as typical California Chardonnays. Even without putting the wine through a malolactic fermentation, they can exhibit a creamy, almost custard like aspect, while retaining brightness and freshness on the palate. Flavors are complex, engaging, and provide a splendid complement to a wide range of foods.

To see just how well these wines accompanied food courses, we tried them with antipasto, mussels in a light tomato, basil and white wine sauce, Thai coconut chicken soup (Tom Kha Gai), grilled chicken breast with beurre blanc, and linguini with white clam sauce. There were no disappointments. Pinot Grigio provides a good match with almost any light dish and a splendid one with Asian foods.

RECOMMENDATIONS
A word of caution: Be wary of Italian imports. Unless you are procuring your Italian PG from a reputable wine merchant, avoid them. Typical discount offerings are uncharacteristic of the varietal and will probably disappoint. On the other hand, you will probably find consistency in all the major label California PGs. This advice does not extend to "second label" and off-brand wines. Pinot Grigio is fairly new to California and those wineries that make it are investing a considerable effort to get it right. This may not be the case in the coming years, as the market receives increasing amounts of bargain Pinot Grigios aimed at the cost conscious consumer.

OUR FAVORITES:
1998 Mosby Pinot Grigio Santa Barbara County $10
Bill Mosby was one of the first California vintners to release this varietal and it has been consistently excellent. Rich in color and body, it offers very good aromas and flavors of honied citrus, melon and orange rind, along with spice and toasted nuts. An excellent wine; highly recommended. Top value in a first rate California Pinot Grigio.