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Central Coast Zinfandel Focusses on Style

© Alan Boehmer

Zinfandel is California's native son. Although its heritage appears to be rooted in southern Europe, and is produced in other U.S. states, California alone has explored the wide spectrum of wines that this varietal can yield.

You might think that after a century and a half of experience with the Zinfandel grape California winemakers might have reached a concensus on matters of style. After all, they've pretty much done that with most other varietals. Yet wines made from Zinfandel grapes can range from dry to sweet and from light pink to opaque. They can be vinified at alcohol levels ranging from 9% all the way up to 16% or more. They serve as apertif wines, main course wines, and dessert wines.

An event was held recently in Paso Robles that caught our attention. Three boutique winemakers, representing Norman Vineyards, Nadeau Family Winery, and Saucelito Canyon Vineyards, co-hosted a dinner which showcased their current Zinfandel offerings.

The wines served were the product of three winemakers whose specific passion is for Zinfandel. These are not wines designed to capture market share. They are made as monuments to the possibilities of the Zinfandel grape. And as such, they reflect a common style which contrasts sharply with Zinfandels produced in larger quantities, intended for larger audiences.

These superlative exampes of Central Coast Zinfandel are largely the product of head pruned, dry-farmed vineyards, but not exclusively so. Yields are kept very low to concentrate the flavors. Some of these vineyards offer low yields naturally, due to the composition of the soil, age of the vines, and pruning style.

The resulting wines are thick, rich, complex, and exceedingly mouth filling. They are wines to be sipped and savored.

1999 Norman Vineyards Zinfandel 'The Monster;' 15.49% alc., $18.
Says winery owner Art Norman of this wine, "Restraint is not an adjective that applies to this wine." This wine, made by Robert Nadeau, is a definitive example of the assertive style Zinfandels being offered by smaller Central Coast wineries. An exceptional wine and an excellent value. Slight residual sugar gives it a Port-like quality. Try it with chocolate.

1999 Norman Vineyards Zinfandel 'The Classic;' 13.8% alc., $12.
Zinfandel for "the rest of us." Beautifully made, a little drier, but still offering delicious Zinfandel flavors, this wine makes a good dinner companion. Again, an excellent value.

A rising star among Zinfandel producers is Norman's winemaker Robert F. Nadeau, who is now offering wines under his own label, Nadeau Family Vintners. The Nadeau estate occupies a prime viticultural plot near the estate vineyard of Peachy Canyon. Because of limited production and distribution, Nadeau wines are most easily procured directly from the winery.