Suite101

Is California Losing Its Preeminence?


© Alan Boehmer
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1999 Troc Zinfandel California; 13.9% alc., $10
This medium light, flavorful Zinfandel was made by distinguished Santa Barbara County winemaker Bryan Babcock from single vineyard Sierra Foothills fruit. It's delicious and easy drinking. A great picnic wine. It's not often than we see Zinfandels of this quality offered at such a reasonable price. Recommended.

HYBRIDS
A relatively new category in California wine is the hybrid cross-varietal blend. One of the most exciting examples is a Viognier-Chenin Blanc hybrid which we've followed through several vintages now. Another very tasty one is a member of Kendall-Jackson's Collage series.

1999 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier California; 12% alc., $10
One of the more unusual wines of the tasting and one of the best. This blend of Chenin Blanc and Viognier attempts to display the best qualities of two very different varietals in a single wine. Highest scoring California wine of the event. Light color, classy nose. Alive on the palate. Crisp and bright, with plenty of acid to mitigate the disciplined sweetness of the fruit. A pleasant "blast of citrus" on the finish. Highly recommended.

1999 Kendall-Jackson Collage Zinfandel Shiraz California; 13.5% alc., $8.99
Light to medium ruby. Lovely, peppery blackberry with clear Zinfandel characteristics. Light and refreshing on the palate with very good fruit, good acid balance, and just enough delicate tannins to give the wine a structure not often found in wines of this price category. Recommended.

IMPORTS
Made abroad for release and distribution by California wineries. One of the most dependable import labels in this category is Calina from Chile. Calina is a label that has never disappointed us in quality for the price.

1999 Calina Chardonnay Itata Valley (Chile); 13.9% alc., $8
Very pale straw color. Very good varietal nose. Bright, attractive Chardonnay flavors suggestive of ripe apples, citrus and pear. Judiciously oaked in small French and American barrels. One of the best inexpensive Chardonnays we've tasted and a terrific value. Highly recommended.

MID-PRICED WINES
Here's where competition is particularly severe in California wines. Almost every winery scrambles to offer a premium Chardonnay priced under $20, but which is as clear cut above the excellent values of inexpensive imports. Here are a couple we like, one priced just a little above the bargain basement:

2000 Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay Vintner's Reserve California; 13.5% alc., $11.99
Golden straw color. Fresh aromas of ripe melon, pineapple and caramel. Pleasantly bright on the palate. This release marks an evolution of style for this label. K-J's Vinter's Reserve Chardonnays have become increasingly more fruit oriented with less obvious oak contributions. The 200 K-J Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay is a versatile, food friendly wine which will complement a wide spectrum of poultry and seafood dishes. Recommended.

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