1999 La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast; 13.8% alc., $20
La Crema makes what we consider one of the finest $20 Chardonnays in California. Complex, never overoaked, always a pleasure. One of the best values in premium California Chardonnay. Highly recommended.
CALIFORNIA ZINFANDEL
At this point, California has no worthy competition for Zinfandel. The spectrum runs from excellent, inexpensive examples all the way up to cult wines. We think they offer good value throughout the entire range. Here are two noteworthy examples:
1999 Clos du Bois Zinfandel Reserve Dry Creek Valley; 14.5% alc., $22
Dark ruby color. Rich blackberry aroma with plenty of spice and sweet oak. Very full flavor on the palate with luscious, long lasting concentrated fruit flavors and very moderate tannins. Long and flavorful finish. A very attractive Zinfandel with clear Dry Creek terroir profile. Highly recommended.
1998 Benessere Zinfandel Napa Valley; 14.8% alc., $35
Spicy, herbal, and aromatic. Rich, dark, plummy flavors and enhanced by a a suggestion of clove and vanilla. A polished Zinfandel with unique style. Recommended.
PREMIUM WINES
These are the wines California has built its international reputation on. Here are a few new releases which have captured our interest.
1998 Gainey Merlot Limited Selection Santa Ynez Valley Unfiltered; 14.1% alc., $35
Warm, medium ruby color. Perfumed aromas of spicy blackberry and pomegranate. Delicious deep, rich flavors lead to a slightly bitter finish. Moderate tannins suggest holding this wine another year or so. There are many mediocre California Merlots on the market; this wine is not among them. Recommended.
1998 Pepi Colline di Sassi Napa Valley Red Wine; 14.2% alc., $25
This California "Supertuscan" is composed of 58% Sangiovese, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot. Especially attractive garnet color attests to its extra long ageing prior to release. Substantial, inviting, warm nose of ripe cherry and brown spices with a hint of fresh herbs. Gorgeous flavors follow. Velvet tannins suggest a wine which has already reached perfection of balance. Colline di Sassi is the flagship of Pepi's impressive lineup of Italian styled wines. You can shell out $100 for a Supertuscan, or you can enjoy this scrumptious analog for a quarter of the price. Very highly recommended.