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What’s California’s Next Varietal Craze?

© Alan Boehmer

For more than a century California wineries have played a game of catch-up. Not blessed with a single indigenous example of vitis vinifera, they had no choice but to try to replicate the successes of other regions. To the surprise of many, they ultimately outperformed many of the world's tradition-bound winemakers, raising the quality of California wine to compete with the world's best.

Today all but a tiny fraction of California's commercial output consists of a handful of established varietals, mostly the well-known French ones: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and others. But many California wineries are experimenting with small plantings of varietals you may never have heard of.

As we try to catch our breath from our long race with the European wine industry, some observers have noted certain recent trends, both here and abroad, that may shape the direction California wine will take in the coming years.

First, let us say that not every European varietal has enjoyed equal success in the Golden State. California Riesling and Gewurztraminer, for example, can be quite pleasant when made by those few wineries that choose to feature them, such as The Gainey Vineyard in Santa Barbara County and Greenwood Ridge in Mendocino County. But nice as these wines are, they do not approach the spectacular examples which flow to us from Alsace. Nor do anyone else's. These varietals seem to find a particularly agreeable home in northeastern France and no matter how much viticultural and enological know-how we might bring to bear, these varietals simply do not shine in California or anywhere else outside of that region.

California may be responsible for the development of the "international style," which makes everyone's Cabernet Sauvignon taste more or less similar, but where are the varietals that shout "California!" and can't be replicated elsewhere?

Our most noteworthy example is, of course, Zinfandel. We've tasted examples from Italy, Croatia, and Oregon. None of these begins to approach the rich and complex examples from California's better Zinfandel producers. Perhaps Zinfandel is to California what Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Tokay Pinot Gris are to Alsace. But might there be other varietals waiting in the wings that will ultimately take root here in such a unique manner?

We see this very thing occurring in other regions. Only in the past decade has Austria discovered that it can produce some of the world's most attractive white wines from a previously disparaged white varietal, Gruner Veltliner, when grown in exactly the right location - Wachau. Is anyone else making competitive wines from this varietal? No, we think not. It may be Austria's Zinfandel.