Marks on gold jewelry are small and fine, and a loupe or magnifying glass is necessary to see the marks clearly enough to read. Jewelry collectors or resellers usually carry a loupe for very fine marks, but a magnifying glass works nearly as well. Jewelry marks are commonly on the back of the piece, but may be on the edge or even pressed on the pin.
Gold Filled Jewelry Markings
Gold-filled jewelry often has marks with fractions. Common numbers found on gold filled jewelry are 1/20 12k gf or 1/20 10k gf. These marks give the quantity of the gold layer over the core. Gold-filled jewelry has more gold than gold-plated jewelry.
Some quality vintage costume jewelry was gold filled, and Krementz was one of the makers. With the value of gold rising, this jewelry has increased in value although it is considered costume jewelry. They made cuff links for men and women as well as costume jewelry copies of classic jewelry.
Gold Plated Jewelry Markings
Gold-plated jewelry is often marked HGE for high gold electroplate. Vintage jewelry is marked RGP for rolled gold plate. Gold overlay on sterling is called vermeil (pronounced ver-may), and this process has been fashionable in recent years. Vermeil was also common in vintage jewelry and was called gold wash over sterling. These marks are all for gold-plated jewelry.
Rings are often marked 14K HGE and the dealers think this is gold jewelry. It is not, and does not have the value of fine gold jewelry. Watch for letters following the 14k or 10k to be sure that the jewelry is gold and not gold plated. One mark that often confuses the jewelry seeker is 14kp. This is 14 karat plumb gold, and it is no less than 14k gold, according to Tulsa Jewelry.
Gold Jewelry Marks
Fine gold jewelry marks are 10k, 14k and 18k, and 24k is pure gold, too soft to make jewelry. Gold imports to the United States are often marked in decimals from the country of origin. Ten karat gold jewelry is often marked .417, 14k may be marked .583 and 18k is marked .750. These are no less gold than the fine gold jewelry marks of 10K, 14K and 18K and are often overlooked by collectors.
A smart collector or reseller will watch for these numbers on jewelry and find bargains at flea markets, bargain stores or collectibles malls. There are valuable pieces of jewelry just waiting to be found.
Linda Richard - Writer, proofreader, editor, antiques appraiser specializing in pottery and glass. Author of Retirement Living Guide series.
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