Miriam Haskell began jewelry production in New York about 1926 and continues production of fine-quality costume jewelry for the world market. Starting with the design ability of Frank Hess and the insistence for quality by Miriam Haskell, this costume jewelry, both vintage and new, has become a symbol of what’s great in America, as it continues production for the world market.
Early Years of Miriam Haskell Costume Jewelry
The Twenties era in American history hovers somewhere between Art Deco and outrageous, an era of the Charleston and the flapper. Miriam Haskell jewelry started bold, and this jewelry has a tradition for color and size. Haskell jewelry was not marked for the first twenty years of production, and identification is by attribution. This is an inexact science, but some students of jewelry identification have nearly mastered the task. Here are some of the most accepted identifiers of early Miriam Haskell jewelry:
- Quality: The quality of Haskell jewelry is superb, and handwork is common with a profusion of beads with seed beads at the end of each strand.
- Composition: Miriam Haskell selected glass beads from Italy and France. Celluloid and wood mixed with glass and other unlikely combinations worked to make this jewelry outstanding. Jewelry often had more beads than necessary to make an attractive necklace, brooch, dress clip, earrings or bracelet.
- Style: Miriam Haskell jewelry is trend setting--always anticipating the newest styles. Miriam Haskell reflects the era, whether twenties, thirties, or forties. The best way to learn style of an era is by reviewing old costume jewelry advertising and books on costume jewelry. Jewelry also follows necklines. When necklines are high, necklaces are long. When necklines are low, chokers are common.
Signs That a Piece May be by Miriam Haskell
There are quite a few signature details that figure in many Haskell pieces.
- Streamers and tassels
- Plastic inserts in back
- Pegboard style metal framework
- Slightly flattened glass beads
- Gold-tone pressed metal filigree
- Rare use of glue
Fifties and Newer Miriam Haskell Jewelry
Some Miriam Haskell jewelry was marked starting in the 1950s. A metal hangtag with the pressed name attaches with a jump ring to some of the vintage costume jewelry. There was also a round impressed mark and a horseshoe mark used during the '50s. A small dove figurine and sometimes a turtle figurine are used as clasps or branding marks for Miriam Haskell from the '70s.
Starting about 1980, oval hangtags were flat on the back. Newer marks sometimes have limited edition numbers in the center of the oval Miriam Haskell name.
Miriam Haskell Costume Jewelry Today
Haskell continues to produce fine costume jewelry under the M. Haskell and Jewels of Haskell names, as well as private label names for Macy’s, Kohl’s, Dillard’s, J. C. Penney, Target and Gap, according to the Miriam Haskell website. In recent years, the company has launched Christopher Radko jewelry and Betsey Johnson lines. The 2008 acquisition of M. W. Samara places Miriam Haskell in the sterling silver jewelry business, and new lines are Kenneth Cole and Gwen Stefani Harajuku Lovers.
Eighty-five years of costume jewelry production in the United States makes Miriam Haskell one of the most collectible names in costume jewelry. The superb quality keeps it high on the list of valuable collectible jewelry. Handwork and detail limited production, and that keeps the market prices high for the vintage jewelry. Whether you collect vintage Miriam Haskell or contemporary Miriam Haskell, you are buying a costume jewelry treasure.
Linda Richard - Writer, proofreader, editor, antiques appraiser specializing in pottery and glass. Author of Retirement Living Guide series.
