The Heckenwirtschaft (pronounced “Heck'n – veert – shahft”) is a tradition among German small winegrowers. It goes by different names in different wine regions. For example, Heckenwirtschaft is the Franconian incarnation, while it would be called Winzerstube, Besenwirtschaft, Straußenwirtschaft, Häckerstube or Häckerwirtschaft in other areas. The concept is the same, however.
Temporary Wine-Tasting Rooms
For a few weeks each spring (April/May) and fall (September/October/November) winegrowers open parts of their houses — it could be a courtyard or even their own dining rooms — and offer their own wines and homemade food. The décor and ambiance range from very plain to Sonoma-like.
These are not real restaurants open year-round. The purpose is to showcase the grower’s newest wines and tasters get a wonderful low price for the privilege. Taste the wine per-glass and take home a bottle as well.
German Food at the Heckenwirtschaft
The grower’s family all pitch in to make the experience one of visiting friends. There are no professional waiters and the food is all prepared in the kitchen of the grower. The menu is short and the fare usually includes bread, cheese, cold cuts and pretzels. A popular dish in Franconia is Gerupftekaese, a cheese spread that is simply delicious!
Open During Shoulder Season
German regulations prohibit Heckenwirtschaften from being open more than a few months a year total, so they are usually open just before the growing season and just after harvest. This conveniently coincides with tourist “shoulder season” when prices are cheaper and crowds are thinner. However, travelers run the risk of bad weather, off-season sight closures or renovation. Scaffolding wreaks havoc in vacation pictures.
Franconian Wine Types
Typical white wines found at a Heckenwirschaft include Silvaner, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, and Bacchus. Red wines include Schwarzriesling, Spätburgunder, Dornfelder and Domina. Lucky tasters will even find Eiswein (Icewine) made from grapes harvested after the first hard frost in which the sugars are concentrated yielding high-alcohol wine.
None of the wines will be extremely dry; most of them are sweet or semi-sweet. They will, of course, be paired very well with the food served. And because the grapes are locally grown each wine type will have its own terroir and personality.
How to Find a Heckenwirtschaft
Since the winetasting rooms are operated by very small winemaking operations, the Heckenwirtschaft can be difficult to find. They will not be in city centers or commercial areas and there will be no commercial signage. The traditional tip-off is a straw broom or evergreen branch above a doorway, but today there will usually be at least a freestanding chalkboard with the name and hours posted.
The best way to find one is to ask locals for their recommendations. Ask the hotel desk clerk or concierge for advice or even the server in a restaurant or pub. Everyone will have a favorite. Lucky travelers have friends who live in the area and will take them to their favorite place.
There may be a listing of Heckenwirtschaften in the local newspaper or community events listing. Some areas have information online.
Sources:
- Epicurean Traveler
- Guide Picker
- Franken Weinland
Karren Tolliver - Karren Doll Tolliver is from the Midwest USA and received a BA in English from Mississippi University for Women in 1984. Writing since she ...
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