The Dornfelder grape originated in Germany. It was bred in the mid-1950’s from two other hybrids, Helfensteiner and Heroldrebe, one of which comes from Pinot noir. Dornfelder is the second most grown red grape in Germany after the Spätburgunder, the German name for Pinot Noir.
BATF Grants Dornfelder Varietal Status
Recent rulings by the US Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF) have allowed Dornfelder to be specified as a varietal wine. Given its relatively obscure history as a red grape meant for lending body to lighter wines, the fact that it is now being explored as a varietal speaks volumes to its characteristics. In fact, over 10,000 acres have been planted with Dornfelder in its native Germany, up from only 250 acres in 1970.
Dornfelder is Hardier than Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)
Unlike its picky “grandparent” Spätburgunder (Pinot noir), Dornfelder is much hardier, ripens early, is innately disease-resistant and produces relatively few side shoots on the vine, which makes it easier to grow. In addition, its autumn colors are quite attractive in and of themselves.
Beaujolais Style and More
One of the first ways vintners used Dornfelder was to blend it with other grapes or try to make a fresh, young wine like Beaujolais with limited success. However, now the grape is being fermented into a dry varietal wine out of which come complex, heavy aromas and flavors.
Dornfelder Notes
The color of Dornfelder can be described as inky, and the legs of this wine can stain the glass. Descriptions of the aroma and taste include such terms as blackberry, sour cherry, raw meat and mushroom. As heavy as it is, it has a lot of fruit presence and finishes with a softer tannin than one might expect. It’s no wonder that German winemakers projected using Dornfelder as an answer to Cabernet Sauvignon. But it is so much more.
Wine Pairings with Dornfelder
Dornfelder, because it tends toward heavy, should be served with game or red meat. However, the fruitiness of this varietal makes it light enough to be enjoyed as a party refreshment as well.
German White Wine Exports and Domestic Reds
In general, Germany exports very few red wines, being known mostly for its whites such as Bacchus, Riesling, Silvaner, Gewurtztraminer and Muller-Thurgau. That is not to say that Germans do not enjoy their domestic reds. However, because of the success of the Dornfelder vine in Germany, a climate not traditionally conducive to red grapes, winegrowers in the United Kingdom, Canada and the United States are beginning to experiment with growing and fermenting Dornfelder with some success. It will be interesting to see where winemakers take this unique grape and its complex flavors.
Find Domestic and Imported Dornfelder Wine
Dornfelder is fairly easy to find if one is in Germany. Local wineries make it and even the supermarkets carry it. However, if a wine enthusiast in North America looks hard enough, he can certainly find Dornfelder in several online wine outlets, in wine superstores, or even in small, local wineries in the right location. Dornfelder is definitely worth a tasting.Check any preconceived notions about dry reds at the door, though.
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Karren Tolliver - Karren Doll Tolliver is from the Midwest USA and received a BA in English from Mississippi University for Women in 1984. Writing since she ...
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