For a Regency lady clad in thin muslin dresses, shawls, cloaks, and coats not only provided protection from cold weather and drafty houses, but they lent a bright jolt of color to an otherwise white or pale outfit. The light and gauzy fabrics that were so in fashion during the very early 19th century gave scant coverage over bare necks and arms, and many a young lady succumbed to ‘muslin disease’, the term given in 1803 to women who contracted pneumonia or influenza.
Shawls
Shawls were worn as a matter of course by the Regency lady of fashion. Early on, they were plain oblong squares of fabric, but as the Regency era progressed, shawls became larger and more ornate, adding fancy embroidery and fringes. Large square shawls would be folded into triangles and draped casually over the arms for show; smaller shawls (scarves) would be worn around the neck for warmth. At times a Regency lady would wear both at the same time!
Costly cashmere shawls from the Himalayan mountains were made with the hair of shawl goats. The early traditional pine cone design was transformed by Scottish and English weavers into paisley patterns. Norwich, an important textile city, produced beautiful and expensive shawls that were also immensely popular with rich and well connected ladies. Paisley shawls became more affordable as the 19th century advanced, and by the Edwardian era, these shawls, whose swirling patterns were now printed on the cloth, were worn only by the lower classes.
Spencer Jackets
Inspired by a military jacket named after the 2nd Earl Spencer, these short, tightly fitted, waist length jackets were in great demand during the period when waistlines were high. They were cut along the same lines as the dress, generally had long sleeves and high collars, and could be worn indoors for day (like a cardigan) and evening (when it was known as a canezou), as well as outdoors.
The jacket provided a brighter, bolder and contrasting color to the dress. An upright standing collar and decorative frog fastenings gave it a decided militaristic air. Spencers were made of every kind of material, from kerseymere to silk to velvet and other warmer fabrics. For very cool weather, some Spencers were lined with fur, and it was not unusual for a Regency lady to drape a shawl over her jacket for additional warmth. When waistlines descended to their natural level again, the Spencer jacket went rapidly out of fashion.
Pelisses
This over garment, which followed the narrow silhouette of the dress, was often sleeveless and resembled a long coat or tunic. A pelisse could be described as a Spencer jacket with a skirt attached, or it could look like a bath robe with darts. Because of its length, which varied from knee length to ankle length, these coat dresses were better suited as outerwear for the winter than Spencer jackets.
Pelisses were quite flexible in design and length. They could be sleeveless, edged or lined with fur, or heavily trimmed with ruffles, swansdown, or contrasting fabrics. In spring and summer pelisses were made of lighter silks or satins or muslin. In the winter, they were constructed of heavier material like wools and velvets, and lined or edged with fur.
Cloaks, Capes, and Mantles
Long hooded cloaks were quite popular in the Regency era and were often made of red. They were worn as late as 1830, but by that time they had largely gone out of fashion. Mantles were worn in the evening, often as part of an ensemble for the opera. Short cloaks with upstanding collars would also be worn for a theatrical evening out.
Outer garments were accessorized with hats and gloves, and in the winter with fur muffs and thick carriage blankets. Shawls were worn over pelisses and spencers, and fur tippets and pelerines added additional warmth to shoulder and neck areas. Often in summer, the pelerine would be worn alone, without a mantle or if other outer wear was deemed too confining.
Sources:
- Ross, Josephine. Jane Austen: A Companion. New Jersey, Rutgers University Press. 2002, p 83-87
- Hammel, Kathy. Cloaks, Capes, Pelisses and Spencers: Outerwear for Regency Ladies. Jane Austen Centre Online Magazine. Web. 7 August. 2010.
- "T he Regency Pelisse Page." The Regency Fashion Page. Web. 7 August. 2010.
- "Norwich Shawls." Norfolk Museum and Archeology Service. Web. 7 August. 2010.
Vic Sanborn - I oversee two blogs: Jane Austen's World and Jane Austen Today, and write about Jane Austen and the Regency World and its manners and ...
