For a short period between the Georgian era and Victoria era, women's fashion experienced a dramatic and liberating change in waistlines and skirts. From the late 18th-century to the early 19th century, tightly-waisted gowns and wide-hooped skirts were cast off in favor of rising waistlines and slim, flowy dresses. The columnar empire dress silhouette was fluid, changing from year to year. In Great Britain, waists rose, then fell, then rose once more, while hems rose and became increasingly ornamental and elaborate. By 1825, waists had fallen to their natural place again, tightly laced corsets and full petticoats reappeared, and fashion had turned full circle.
1780s - 1799
During the mid-18th century, fashionable ladies wore elaborate brocade and silk gowns that opened in the front to reveal beautiful ornate petticoats. By the 1780s Marie Antoinette had popularized the chemise à la reine in France. The Duchess of Devonshire introduced the style in England. These simple white dresses, worn with colored sashes, were noticeably plainer than other gowns of the period. By the end of the 18th century, fashions began to be influenced by classical Greek and Roman statuary. Waists rose and skirt silhouettes became slimmer. Closed gowns (round gowns) gained popularity in the 1790's. Wide hooped skirts were replaced with simple chemise shifts that were gathered under the breasts and at the neck. By 1799, the high-waisted empire gown had become the predominant fashion. Skirts were fully gathered in the back and came with a train.
1800 - 1810
The white hight-waisted muslin dresses favored during the beginning of the 19th century were slim and unadorned. Skirts were narrow and long. Hems stayed classically simple, with little trim or embroidery. Trains for day dresses began to disappear around 1805, and were discarded by the following year. They disappeared for walking dresses in 1807, and became optional for evening wear.
The ongoing conflict with the French during the Napoleonic Wars prevented British ladies from receiving news about French fashion trends. Left to their own devices, British fashion designers lowered waists and shortened skirt lengths. The classic silhouette disappeared as hems were elaborately decorated with tucks, scalloped edges, Van Dyke points, and embroidery.
1811-1820, the Regency era
The Regency era in England lasted for only nine years when King George III fell ill and the Prince Regent ruled as his proxy. Empire gowns continued to evolve, with lowering waists and ankle length skirts flaring out from the body. In 1814, during the Treaty of Paris, British ladies visited France for the first time in years. Much to their surprise, French and British fashions had diverged. French waists had remained high, positioned just under the bosom, and their skirts were even more elaborately decorated than those in England.
By 1815, British fashion had begun to be influenced by the French again. Waistlines rose through 1817, until they could go no higher, and hems became so elaborate that they often included up to three sets of flounces or four lines of embroidery. In 1818, waists began to descend, and by 1820 had fallen to a medium low position. Ankle-length skirts were adorned with colored rope edges, puffing, flowers, and flounces.
1821 - 1825
The Prince Regent had been crowned King George IV and the official Regency period, was over. Women's fashion now reflected Gothic, Renaissance, and Medieval styles. Waists dropped an inch annually until they rested in the natural position in 1825. The ornamentation of skirts and hems continued to evolve, the designs becoming more fanciful and elaborate. Skirts skimmed the ground again and billowed full and wide over petticoats. Sleeves became perceptibly fuller, and demi-trains began to reappear for the evening. The classical style of dressing had officially ended.
Sources
- McCabe, Ammanda. A Tour of Regency Fashion: Day and Evening Dress. The Jane Austen Centre Online Magazine. Web. 17 August. 2010.
- "Public Reaction to Rising Waists During the Late 18th Century". Jane Austen's World. Web. 17 August. 2010.
- Regency Fashion History: 1800-1825 Costume History. Web. 17 August. 2010.
- Cunnington, Cecil Willet. English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide, p 49-84. Web. 16 August. 2010
Vic Sanborn - I oversee two blogs: Jane Austen's World and Jane Austen Today, and write about Jane Austen and the Regency World and its manners and ...
