Star gazing in the Sinai with a full moon shining across the sand is separated by just a cruise-free canal from the herds of Nile enthusiasts, yet life in the desert is so different. A guide is still necessary but here the similarities end as campfires and camels are man’s best friend at night and in the daytime.
Mount Sinai
The ascent of Mount Sinai (2285m) is both the toughest and most rewarding peak of this jagged area. The moonlight attempts to hide behind the endless mountain ranges whilst torchlight processions lead the way along one of the oldest pilgrimages in the world. Humped creatures (more commonly known as camels) are always ready and able to give those who need it a helping hand, however even they must stop at the foot of 750 steps leading to the land of the Ten Commandments.
Whether the reason for this trek is religion or not, there is still something special about the community of thousands upon thousands of worshippers camped at the top of this holy land just biding their time before a glorious sunrise lights up the deserted peaks all around.
Crazy Cairo to Desolate Desert
The hustle and bustle of Cairo’s crazy rush hour (which actually lasts all day) is worth battling through in order to start trekking in this once highly sought after area of Egypt. The scenic drive goes within reach of military bases, past beach resorts akin to ghost towns and under the historic Suez Canal.
The fisherman’s village of Abou Zaniema is the perfect place to swap the comfort of a minibus for a dune bashing 4WD. Heading deeper into the desert the Bedouin communities are interspersed with tombs of celebrated sheikhs and ancient mines before the time comes when the 4WD can go no further. The trekking boots then need to be prepared to sink into the golden sand under the shadows of countless brick red-coloured mountains.
Following in the Bedouin Footsteps
The Bedouins not only inhabit this mystical kingdom, they have laid the stones to guide the way deep into the granite mountain territory that looms over them. The Jebel Sarabit area lies north of the better-known Mount Sinai and unfortunately no torchlight processions exist here so rising with the sun is a necessity for visiting the Temple of the goddess Hathor. It was originally built during the Middle Kingdom (around 4000 years ago) to inspire miners in search of the extremely valuable turquoise in the area.
The only way to continue the mission to Moses is to jump back into the jeeps and battle a beautiful mixture of shades of yellow desert sand and fire-coloured rocks. The grass literally becomes greener on the other side as oases of campsites appear and continuing through the boulderous landscape it is hard at some stage to avoid hearing a voice echoing through the valley announcing prayer time.
Sunny Sinai to Mountain Madness
Whilst hotel chains are making small inroads into the valleys around Mount Sinai, the famous Fox Camp still stands strong, amazingly the home for five years to a German man and his 2 donkeys. Most appetites are whet by the summit and a visit to St Catherine’s Monastery at the base of the mountain, so the area south is scattered with more families willing to welcome travellers with open arms and on occasions perform on their own handcrafted guitars, made from telephone wire, wood and tin lid.
God’s heavy hand may strike with a thunderstorm every once in a while but this only lights up what is one of the most treasured areas in Egypt.
Andrew Buswell - The idea of travelling sprouted from a young age, when our family holidays ventured beyond the boundaries of Kent, taking exciting boat ...
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