Visit Aleijadinho's Barroco Mineiro Art in Minas Gerais, Brazil

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Aleijadinho's sculpture of prophet Habakkuk - Coen Wubbels
Aleijadinho's sculpture of prophet Habakkuk - Coen Wubbels
Inspired by European baroque and rococo, Antônio Francisco Lisboa became one of Brazil's famous artists, known for his Barroco Mineiro sculptures.

Sculptor, woodcarver and architect Antônio Francisco Lisboa lived around 1800 in Minas Gerais, Brazil. He is better known as Aleijadinho, which means Little Cripple – a nickname he gained after he lost his fingers and toes as well as the use of his lower legs. His inspiring art work is an important part of a cultural visit to the Estrada Real – the Royal Route – in Minas Gerais. His most famous architectural works and sculptures can be found in Congonhas and Ouro Preto.

The Prophet statues in Congonhas – City of Prophets

Arguably Aleijadinho's most famed work of art is in Congonhas, 83 kilometres south of Belo Horizonte in southeast Brazil. Between 1800 and 1805 he sculptured a beautiful work called "The Prophets": twelve life-sized Old Testament prophets sculptured from soapstone (see photo below) stand gracefully on the switchback stairs that lead to the Basílica Bom Jesus de Matosinhos in Congonhas.

The Old Testament prophets are (counter clockwise, starting bottom right): Jeremiah, Habakkuk (see photo below), Naim, Ezekiel, Joel, Hosea, Daniel, Jonah, Amós, Baruch, Obadiah and Isaíah. All prophet statues carry a text, in Latin, from their prophecies. Daniel, who was thrown in the lion’s den, can be identified by the lion at his feet and Jonas is accompanied by a whale.

One of the intriguing questions is why these Old Testament figures were sculpted, since images of Old Testament prophets are little used in Brazilian churches – contrary to, for example, the ubiquitous four Evangelists of the New Testament. Another point of interest is that the little-known prophet Habakkuk is among these twelve but that the much better-known Elias is missing.

The six chapels of woodcarver Aleijadinho in Congonhas

Below the basilica stand six chapels with 66 cedarwood statues designed by Aleijadinho from 1796 to 1799, depicting the Stations of the Cross (see photo below). Some of these statues were carved by Aleijadinho himself, others by his assistants. The statues were painted by Manuel da Costa Ataíde – together with whom Aleijadinho worked on many projects – and Francisco Xavier Carneiro.

The construction of the Bom Jesus de Matosinhos Basilica was finished in 1771. The statues inside the church were carved by Aleijadinho between 1780 and 1814. The basilica, including the adjacent convent (latter not open to visitors), is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Entrance fee: 2 reais.

Aleijadinho Barroco Mineiro art in Ouro Preto's churches

Ouro Preto was Aleijadinho's place of birth and he was buried in the Matriz NS da Conceição Church. This church, on Rua Bernardo Vasconcelos, also has a museum displaying his work. Aleijadinho's most important work in Ouro Preto is the Church of São Francisco de Assisi (see photo below), built in 1766-1802, which he designed, as well as worked on the carvings of the exterior.

Some features of the Igreja de São Francisco de Assisi:

  • Above the entrance is a relief where San Francisco de Assisi receives the stigmata (see photo below).
  • Along the sides of the altar are paintings that depict Abraham's life from the moment he receives the message that Sarah will bear him a son until his death (note the medic depicted in 18th century outfit).
  • The corners on the main ceiling depict the four Latin Church Fathers: Ambrose, Gregory, Jerome and Augustine.
  • The ceiling in the nave has a trompe l'oeil painted by Manuel da Costa Ataíde. This is one of the most extraordinary paintings you'll find in all of Minas Gerais' churches.

Largo de Coimbra. Entrance fee is 6 reais for both churches and museum. Opening hours are Tue-Sun 8:30-11:50 a.m. and 1:30-5 p.m.

More of his work can be found in the Church of NS do Carmo, where Aleijadinho carved the facade, doors and side altars. The altar and other gilding work were done by the painter Manuel da Costa Ataíde.

Rua Brigadeira Mosquiera. Entrance fee is 2 reais. Opening hours are Tue-Sun 9:30-11 a.m. - 1-5 p.m.

Other art works of architect Aleijadinho in Minas Gerais

In São João del Rei stands the exquisite São Francisco de Assisi Church, which faces a lyre-shaped plaza designed by Burle Marx. Inside the church you will find two sculptures of Aleijadinho: the figures of São João Evangelista and São Gonçalo do Amaranto. Aleijadinho also designed the façade of the church, which was executed by the artist Francisco Vieira Servas. Other baroque and rococo architecture and sculptures of Antônio Francisco Lisboa are in the towns of Mariana and Sabará.

Praia do Patacho, northeast Brazil, Coen Wubbels

Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.

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