On a trip to Bolivia in August, the festival of Urkupiña near Cochabamba should not be missed. Together with Oruro's Carnival and El Grand Poder Festival in La Paz, this festival is one of the larger and more renowned religious celebrations in Bolivia. Urkupiña constitutes a syncretism of Catholicism and paganism, expressed in traditional dances and ancient rituals; visiting the festival of Urkupiña gives travelers a great insight into Bolivia's strong religious beliefs and traditions.
The Origin of the Religious Festival of Urkupiña in Cochabamba
There are different versions of Urkupiña's origin. According to the most popular story a young shepherd girl daily herded her sheep on a stony hill, where the Virgin Mary appeared to her several times. At one time she indicated the Virgin to her parents, shouting, "Orkopiña" – "There on that hill", as the Virgin was ascending toward heaven. On the summit a stone image of the Virgin was found, which since then has been kept in the church in Quillacollo.
Some locals will explain how the Virgin had told the shepherd girl that the hill contained riches and that people should come here to pray for wealth and welfare. Yet other locals are convinced that the young girl was instructed by the Virgin to pick up some stones and take them home. Once the girl reached her home the stones had turned into silver: the Virgin's first miracle.
Dance and Music During the Urkupiña Festival in Quillacollo
The official date of the Urkupiña Festival is August 14-18 and it draws thousands of spectators from all over Bolivia. However, the last few years this special event has started on August 13, with the Autochthonous Parade. Traditional dance and music groups from surrounding communities represent the Andean culture, wearing traditional costumes and playing ancient instruments such as the panpipes.
August 14 is La Entrada, the main parade of this religious holiday. From early morning until late at night dozens of dance and music groups parade the streets of Quillacollo in an amazing display of colour and festivity. The participants dance up to the church where they pay their respects to the Virgin of Urkupiña – often by moving toward the altar on their knees to show their devotion.
The parade is a fabulous, eye-catching show of folkloric dances such as La Diablada, La Morenada and Caporales. Participants often spend hundreds of dollars on elaborate costumes, many of them hand-sewn.
Pilgrimage to Cerro Calvario to the Virgin of Urkupiña
On August 15 the same participants will dance again, but this time up to the summit of Cerro Calvario [Calvary Hill], where, according to legend, the first stone image of the Virgin was found. During the night devotees walk the fifteen kilometres from Cochabamba to this summit in Quillacollo, to pray for fortune or thank the Virgin as well as the Pachamama [Mother Earth] for wishes fulfilled. On the hill people will gather stones to take home, assuring them of more wealth. Tradition demands that the following year the stones are returned and the Virgin thanked.
The pagan aspect is encountered in the streets of Quillacollo or on Cerro Calvario. Street stalls sell miniatures representing the fortunes wished for by devotees, such as a miniature car and house, or passport [to secure a safe journey]. Blessings may be given by yatiris – Andean shamans – as well as by priests – as is common during the Alasitas Festival in La Paz. Yatiris can also be asked for good fortune, which will be ensured by spooning molten lead into cold water, from which the yatiri can read good omens.
How and When to Travel to Quillacollo, in Cochabamba
Quillacollo is situated 13 kilometres west of Cochabamba. It is easy to catch a micro [bus] or trufi [taxi] from downtown to this religious festival, which costs only a few bolivianos. Quilacollo has various restaurants and guesthouses, and during this special event streets will be lined with food stalls, providing an opportunity to taste local dishes. Quillacollo is especially known for garapiña, a sweetened type of chicha [alochol made from corn].
Karin-Marijke Vis - Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer (Dutch-English) who has been traveling in Asia and South America since 2003.
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