Stenciling

Lesson 8: Using Stencils with Paper

Stenciling with Dimensional Media

If the idea of embossing (and the risk of tearing the paper just when you think you're done) bothers you, there is an alternative, which is a lot like stenciling with plaster, and that is to use embossing paste and a heavy stencil. In fact, even people who love to emboss use this paste to fill in behind their embossing so that it won't flatten out if accidentally pressed.

But you can use embossing paste on its own, as well. Simply tape your stencil into place (and remember - the thicker the stencil the more relief you will get) then spread the embossing paste over the openings with a spatula, taking care to spread it as smoothly as possible.

As with plaster, the paste sets up quickly, so to make sure you get a clean edge, remove the stencil carefully as soon as you have finished spreading the paste to your satisfaction.

Embossing paste comes in a white, opaque form and a translucent form. You can add different powders like pearl-X to create iridescent effects, or mix with liquid acrylic paints. If using the liquid acrylics be sure not to make the mix too thin. Stencil with Style has colored pastes available. If you are using the paste on a dark surface you will need the white, as the translucent acts a lot like transparent paint on dark glass – it disappears. Dreamweaver, maker of the premier modeling paste recommends this site as its mail sales outlet. If you visit, be sure to check their Instructions page for more ideas. They also carry a great selection of brass stencils for dry embossing.

Pastes that can be used in this manner include Embossing pastes by Decorating Paste by DecoArt.

BUDGET BONUS TECHNIQUE
: You'll have to be a bit careful with this technique, so that you don't end up gluing your stencil to your project, but you can create a dimensional effect using Elmer's Glue - or any white glue that is dispensed through an opening in the cap. This works best if you simply want to create an outline in a recognizable shape, but for small projects you can actually still in the entire stencil opening.

Just make sure you stay inside the stencil - don't let the glue touch the edge. Pipe it around the edges of the stencil, using the hole in the lid the way we used glass outline pens. Carefully lift up your stencil. The glue will dry clear and noticeably raised from the surface, and can then be painted. It works well on paper projects, as well as on glass and even heavy fabric.

I've used this technique not only to create a faux mosaic, making "tiles" from glue squares, but also to make jewelry. Create "glue jewels" on cloth or felt and paint with transparent paint.

BONUS 2:
Since you learned to pipe paint outlines with the glass and fabric paints in the last lesson, you can benefit from the knowledge here. Get yourself a cake decorating set and a fine point tip ands you can pipe a 3-D outline, or raised lines onto an otherwise flat stenciled surface.

Note that all of these pastes require heavy paper – ordinary typing paper won't do. But card stock and the heavier hand made papers can produce some beautiful results.

Here are some ideas for projects using Embossing paste.

Brass-Stencils.com has nine great looking projects involving 3-d and stencils. Do them as is or use them as inspiration.

BONUS Project
Dimension using rubber stamps.

You can combine your glass painting skills with a bit of embossing with this project. First, find a bottle with a nice, flat side. Find a rubber stamp that is about half as wide as the flat side of the bottle. You will also need a glue gun and glue stick, and a bowl holding a cloth saturated with cold water.

First, decorate your bottle. I did mine by using star shaped stickers randomly on the bottle and then sponging the bottle all over with cobalt blue. I then sponged gold lightly over the areas with the star stickers. I let this dry, then peeled off the star stickers. I used Pebeo bakeable paints, so had to wait 24 hours at this stage to allow the paint to cure, and then baked it. When the bottle was cool, I was ready for the next stage.

First I drew a rectangle on the flat side of the bottle, enough larger than the rubber stamp inage to completely surround and border it. Meanwhile the rubber stamp itself was pressed into the cold, wet cloth in the bowl.

I filled my rectangular outline with more glue, allowing it to run together into a solid surface. I let that cool until the glue started to look slightly cloudy, meanwhile making certain that the rubber stamp was nice and moist in the damp cloth.

As soon as the rubber cement started to cloud, I took the rubber stamp and aiming roughly for the center, pressed it into the warm glue. This takes only a few seconds, after which you want to lift it carefully away from the glue. The cold water helps to keep the rubber from sticking to the glue and allows its relatively easy removal.

What you now have is an embossed - or more accurately, engraved medallion decorating the front of your bottle. When the glue was fully cool and dry, I painted mine with black acrylic paint, allowing that to dry thoroughly. Then I added some extender to gold acrylic metallic paint and brushed that over the black, quickly wiping some of the excess away to reveal a bit of the underlying black. This creates an aged metal effect, and also really helps to highlight the design of your chosen rubber stamp engraving.

If you like you can decorate the rim of the bottle with gold or copper wire and beads. This technique produces a bottle that looks like it cost way more than you paid for it, and spent way more time on than you actually did. A perfect small gift, - perhaps as a set of spice jars? Or a nice way to stow the odds and ends on your dresser top decoratively. I even made one or two to hold medicines (carefully marking the actual contents on the bottom of the bottle, of course!)